Still Catching Up: Tour of NW CA days, Day 11

Day 11: June 4, Garberville to Redwood River Resort.  The day was primarily grey, drizzly at times.  We stopped in Benbow to see the Inn and witnessed the beginning of the set up for the Reggae festival.  It was a short day, around 19 miles.  It actually started to rain just before we arrived at Redwood River Resort.  I remember the highway corner the resort sets on from the many trips south or north by car.  I do not recall the resort because it sets back off the sharp, narrow, corner, with a slight uphill if going south and the entrance was easily missed but not the entrance to the House of Mystery sitting opposite across the road with a big ol' sign.  In my old VWs I would have to shift down.    The House of Mystery wasn't very busy according to Bob and Geno who went to their restaurant for a hamburger.  What has recently happened is Cal Trans has straightened out the corner and installed a new bridge across the river.  The Redwood River Resort is now much more noticeable while the House of Mystery is even more mysterious because it is less obvious when going through the new corner.
I elected to prepare dinner for us and decided on spaghetti as I knew from a perusal of the resort store they had the makings, Ragu sauce and noodles.  I also found frozen hamburger but no fresh vegetables and no onions.  I did find potatoes but somehow when I thought about spaghetti with potatoes it just didn't appeal.
After dinner we watched our favorite past-time for this trip, the weather reports.  It was looking more favorable for a change.

Day 12: June 5, Redwood River Resort to McKarricher State Park.  It was overcast when we left the resort.  We rolled down 101 to a store directly across from Standish Hickey State Park.  We feasted on breakfast burritos, warmed up in a microwave and washed down with fresh coffee.  While there a young couple rolled in from the park to get breakfast foods, fresh eggs for one.  I remember seeing them on the road the day before.  If I recall correctly they came past the resort in the rain and it was getting dark.  They were headed to San Francisco.
Down the road a piece is Leggitt and the junction to Highway 1.  We paused a moment and two cyclists came zooming into town but didn't turn onto Highway 1.  We did and shortly after doing so began to pay our dues to get to the Pacific Ocean.  We gained around 1000 feet rising to 1781feet.  We stopped to rest and chat about another granny gear climb.  The descent though was very long bottoming out near zero feet in elevation. Much of the descent was following South Fork Creek.  The air was warming but we weren't getting full sun shine yet.  To do so we had another granny gear climb of 600 feet over a couple miles.  Both of the days climbs were primarily shaded by deciduous and evergreens of differing varieties.
We paid our dues and were rewarded with sunshine and great views of the Pacific.

The Pacific and 4 happy travelers.  Picture w/Geno's camera by East Coasters in a big hurry.  

This was my first look at the Pacific in a couple years.  It is a good and deeply mysterious feeling.  We meandered down the coast stopping in Westport for food (a bagel and cream cheese with two peanut butter cookies for chasers).  Before leaving Westport I filled out a survey form meant for cyclists at a little wayside.
Highway 1 goes up and down quite a bit.  No climb was steep nor very long and the sunshine tempered by cool ocean breezes made the climbs very tolerable.  It was a fun day.  The town of Cleone was where McKarricher Part was located.  We stopped at a store for more food and chatted with locals about where to eat dinner.  Turns out a Mexican Restaurant located right next to the park got the highest recommendation.  Works for us.
An interesting phenomena I began to notice was how many businesses on the coast did not take credit or debit cards.  I surmised it was because of bank charges.  The Mexican Restaurant would take an out of town check or cash.
After dinner Geno, Frank and I walked down to the shore to watch the sea lions and seals frolicking in the waves and rocks.  We were very entertained.

Day 13, June 6, McKarricher State Park to Van Damme State Park.  Per our usual morning routine Bob and I trailed Geno and Frank out of camp.  We road a bike trail through McKarricher to Fort Bragg, following the shore line, only about 4 or 5 miles and caught up with them at Egg Heads, a very popular breakfast spot in Fort Bragg.  After breakfast we wandered the town checking out the outdoor store so Bob could purchase a new air mattress.  He had grown weary waking up every morning on the ground.  He tried very hard to find the leak but to no avail so bought a new one.  We also elected to do laundry while in Fort Bragg.  It was to be another short day so time was not an issue.

Van Damme Park is a few miles south of Mendocino.  I arrived first.  I rolled up to the ranger station prepared to pay a bike/hiker camp fee and was told I owed $30 for a camp site.  Having only paid $5 the night before for a bike/hiker camp I was astounded.  I pressed the gentleman a little bit so he got out his training manual and found the correct information indicating it was only $5.  Apparently the state fiscal woes had shook up the state parks quite a bit.  I am guessing a lot of desk jockeys now found themselves out on the front lines doing a job they didn't know much about.  The ranger at McKarricher admitted to being new and this gentleman had a compatriot enter the station who also indicated they were new at the job.
I picked my spot, set up my tent, showered, and met a man from Fair Oaks who was partaking in an annual family camping outing at Van Damme.  He had noticed my bicycle and was checking it out when I came out of the showers.   He invited me up to their camp site.  It was maybe an hour later when the three amigos showed up.  They had no problems with paying the bike hiker fee.  Gee, I wonder why?
After setting up his tent and showering Geno and I hiked up to the resort above us to see what dinner prices were like.  It was pretty expensive so we went across the road to the store and gas station.  To our delight we discovered they served hot food with a view of the ocean to boot.  We went back to camp to report our findings to Frank and Bob.  We ate dinner up there at the store.  After dinner Bob and I went looking for the man from Fair Oaks camp site.  Turned into quite a hike as they were located on the north bluff overlooking our camp site.  We chatted for awhile then took a trail back to our camp site which was about half the distance of the original hike.

Day 14, June 7, Van Damme State Park to Ukiah Sunrise Motel.
It rained on us during the night.  Not hard but enough to pack up a wet tent the next morning.  Breakfast was at the same store.  It was overcast on the coast but we were heading inland today.  We headed east on Airport Comptche Road.   There were several low key climbs before topping out on a ridge.  We stopped to see the Pygmy Forest.  Interesting geological fact was the park was directly east of Van Damme and contiguous with it.  If we had known and wanted to we could have taken a trail to the Pygmy Forest.  A micro climate created these small pine trees.  We did an easy descent amongst the Redwoods to reach Comptche Ukiah Road.  We rode a long descent into Comptche to the store for food and drink.  The sun was shining and it was warm.  We had a choice here.  We could ride due south to Hendy Woods State Park or go due east and end up in Ukiah.  Going east would cut a day off of the trip thus catching up with our schedule as layovers had put us a day or so behind.  As you might have guessed we elected to go east.  Geno had told us we would encounter some tough climbs.  HE WAS NOT WRONG!!  A few miles out of Comptche we encountered the first 10% grade lasting two miles.  Another long, long descent to a valley and a stop to admire some sort of long haired Asian cows.  There was a road to a Buddhist retreat center located next to the field with the Asian cows.
We rolled along and it began to feel like we were climbing, it was subtle, but the legs do not lie.  We stopped at Orr's Hot Springs Resort to eat lunch.  Bob and I were preparing to mount our bikes when an employee asked us if we were heading toward Ukiah.  We said yes and he told us it was a very steep climb but after the 3rd 180 corner it got better.  He rode it every other day.  I am here to say it did not get better until you reached the very top or summit just before the descent.  There was a point where it probably stopped being 15% but only leveled off to 10%.  There was also the false summit where one went down but back up again and down and back up again and all those ups seemed steep.  We stopped at the top to look out toward the east overlooking Ukiah.  The wind was blowing and it was refreshing up on this hill.  Next we had to deal with a steep, on the brakes all the time to control one's speed, until the road finally leveled out.  Geno and I stopped in Ukiah to wait for Frank and Bob.  We decided to find a place to eat an early dinner and chose a Chinese Restaurant.  While seated at the table Geno looked at us and asked, "What do you guys think about spending the night in a motel?"  No one had a negative response.  I believe we were all thinking it and Geno said it for us.  We found a reasonable rate and settled in.  We staked our damp tents down to dry out and they did.

Day 15, June 8, Ukiah to Lakeport, Willow Point RV Campground.
We ate breakfast in Ukiah then headed out ostensibly for Harbin Hot Springs just outside of Middletown, a ride of 60 to 70 miles.  Doing so would put us a day ahead of our original schedule.  The ride today was relatively easy.  No hard climbs but we were on Highway 20 which is a very busy highway but does have, for the most part, nice wide shoulders.  We turned off at Scott's Valley Highway and rode it into Lakeport.  This is a very low key road and perfect for cyclists.  It leads directly into Lakeport.  We had lunch and the discussion centered on moving on to Harbin Hot Springs or looking for a place to stay here.  I was feeling OK and thought another 35 miles was doable.  The others were saying stopping would be OK and let's check out the possibilities here first then if nothing is available we can move on.  Our waitress recommended Willow Point.  We road down there and it was a very nice spot.  We were able to choose a camp site right on the edge of Clear Lake.  We had another Mexican meal sitting on the water's edge and then watched the Celtics vs Lakers playoff game in the bar.  I took these pictures of the cloud formations with my iPhone just before turning in for the night.

While setting up my tent I realized I really was not the Mr. Gung Ho I was trying to be over lunch.  It took me a little longer to set up my tent than normal because I was feeling pretty tired.  We walked around Lakeport checking out the stores and having a coffee at the local espresso shop.  Lakeport is a nice town.

Day 16, June 9, Lakeport to Middletown.  I was the last one to breakfast at a restaurant in Lakeport.  In fact the others were through eating by the time I got there.  We took secondary roads to Kelseyville.  There we found a local bakery/espresso cafe and had coffee and goodies.  We stayed on secondary roads and crossed Highway 29 eventually hooking up with Bottle Rock Road.  Before beginning the climb up Bottle Rock we agreed to meet in Cobb.  Geno took off and I plugged along behind.  Frank and Bob followed me.  You climb in semi-arid, exposed, country to the top of a ridge where at the top the pine trees show up and then you begin a descent into a forested valley lying at the foot of Cobb Mountain.  I had ridden this road once before so it wasn't all new country.  To get to the town of Cobb you have to climb out of the valley.  It is an easy, shaded, and short climb.  When I reached the intersection of Bottle Rock Road and Highway 175 I stopped.  I looked right, left, across the road, in all directions, several times but did not see Geno.  I figured he rode on ahead to a store he knew about.  I turned right and headed toward Middletown, checking for stores, including going off the road to check out a strip mall but no one I knew was there.  I continued on and very shortly was out of Cobb and descending at a good rate of speed.  Soon I was in Middletown as it is all downhill from Cobb.  I rode up and down the main drag looking for Geno.  Eventually I decided he was not in Middletown and I was hungry so I picked a restaurant.  The three lost ones showed up an hour after I had arrived.  I hurried out of the restaurant and flagged them down.  Once in the restaurant Geno chastised me for not knowing where he was hiding (my word) in Cobb.  Do you, dear reader, recall my experience with the barrista in Myers Flat who flatly denied he was a mind reader?
Once again over food it was suggested we see about getting a motel room instead of doubling back to Harbin Hot Springs to camp.  Geno volunteered to ride out to the casino and see what their rates were.  We signed up for the gamblers' club and got reduced meals.  It seemed pretty luxurious to me.

Day 17, June 10, Middletown to Putah Creek Campground.
Another beautiful day to go for a bike ride.  We had a cheap breakfast at the casino then headed out to climb up and over Butts Canyon into Pope Valley.  We stopped at the remodeled Pope Valley Store for lunch.  We got to climb Cardiac Hill, Oh Boy, what a treat!
After the double dip of Cardiac we cruised on down to Putah Creek.  We stopped at the store for food before entering campground.  We found the camp host who told us to circle around and find a site then come back and pay him.  We found a site, went back and paid then ran into a couple from New York who really wanted the site.  Meanwhile a second site was found and we elected to trade them.  During this trade Bob lost a piece connecting his pannier to his bike.  Rather important.  He back tracked his steps.  Meanwhile the New York gentleman came to the camp with the missing piece.  We sneakily replaced the part.  Bob returned and was examining his pannier and lo and behold the missing piece was there.  What the heck!!  Bob began to doubt himself.  The peanut gallery encouraged this tact until they could no longer contain their mirth and burst forth in guffaws.  Bob, of course, had no idea what was so funny and between yuks we explained what had happened and Frank was the one who replaced it.  I made sure I was not noted as the sneak who came up with the idea.
We walked back over to the store after our camp dinner for dessert.  Then we bedded down for our last night on the road serenaded by the numerous peacocks residing in the area.

Day 18, Friday, June 11, Putah Creek to home.
During the night the wind came up big.  It blew and blew mightily.  We were lucky no tree limbs fell on us although I do not think any limbs fell during the night as I saw little wind damage the next morning.  The hope was the wind would die after sun up, but not this day.  Bob called our friend Bob Tribe to let him know we were going to eat breakfast in Winters at the Putah Creek Cafe.  Bob T. said he would join us.  The journey to Winters was interesting in that the wind was primarily out of the northwest and we were headed east.  That made the wind a side wind and more or less in our faces.  I put my head down and put the power to the pedals.  The others couldn't stay with me so as a result I rode into Winters a few minutes ahead.  We fueled up at the cafe.  Bob T. arrived a bit later but had already eaten so he just entertained us with his stories and anecdotes.  Bob T. took the picture below before we saddled up and headed for Davis.

The ride to Davis was very challenging.  Now we were headed due east on an exposed highway.  We opted for the shortest route to Davis.  Once again I put the power to the pedals and pulled away from the others.  We planned to enter Davis on Russell Blvd. which required our exiting Highway 128 after 5 miles or so.  Turning onto Russell meant heading due south.  I backed off and coasted.  I looked down and I was traveling 15 miles per hour solely by wind power.  This meant I had to put the brakes on and stop.  We grouped up again and now we stayed together.  We moved in and out of wind breaks provided by the various farmers and university croplands.  We stopped in Davis for another break.  The wind wasn't too bad in the city.  On the east side of Davis it picked up again and we dealt with it crossing the causeway.
Before we split up, Geno, Frank and Bob headed to his place, and me for home, Geno had us gather in front of the state capital for a final picture.

I had another 15 plus miles to travel.  They had about a mile or two.  The ride home was much more pleasant as the wind seemed to have lost intensity.  I also had buildings and trees to break the wind.
As of today, 10-29-2010 I am still planning to cross the US with Bob this next summer.